When we booked our vacation to South Africa, we didn’t have an itinerary for the trip, only our arrival and departure details. Besides that, Mr. Vacay knew he wanted to surf, and I knew I wanted to go on safari. With countless safari options but not much time for research or planning, a dear friend came to my rescue. She recommended a destination easily accessible from our trip starting point (Jeffreys Bay), and she also introduced us to Uyaphi (a travel booking group that specializes in African safaris and tours). I’m so grateful it came together – it was an experience that I’ll never forget. This is how we spent our time during our two-night stay at Shamwari Private Game Reserve and Bayethe Lodge.

Thursday, June 9

With the car loaded, we made the two-hour drive from Jeffreys Bay to Shamwari. Unknowingly, we took the “long way,” from the freeway, into the Reserve, which meant that shortly after we crossed the first set of gates (and there were many gates), we were driving past baboons, then GIRAFFES, AND THEN ELEPHANTS! They were all easily visible from the road as we navigated our way to the lodge. And guess what, we would definitely recommend that you take the long way, what a happy accident that was. Another note about the drive through the Reserve – we were told not to turn off of the main road, and we were instructed not to get out of our cars. You betcha, no need to tell me twice. The Jurassic Park-like gates, with rolling concrete blockades topped by barbed wire, plus signs warning of roaming “cats” were all we needed to heed the warnings.

Once we arrived at Bayethe Lodge, we discovered that we were their only guests. We were absolutely spoiled by their service, and we enjoyed the entire property uninterrupted. We were greeted with a prepared lunch, then shown to our magnificent room. It was a massive luxury yurt, beautifully designed and decorated. We had an expansive view of the hill-side, a plunge pool, a walk-in dressing room, a comfortable sitting area, an indulgent bed, an enormous bathroom with indoor and outdoor showers, and a soaking tub with a stunning view.

But, we would enjoy the room later, because shortly after settling in, we were told to meet our driver for our first game drive. We were offered plates of sweets, teas, and juices before being sent on our way. Then we were given a quick education about the drives; dress warm, don’t get out of the vehicle, don’t dangle anything out of the vehicle, don’t make wild arm motions, and if afraid or uncomfortable, speak up. Check, check, CHECK.

We headed out, not knowing what we were about to encounter. Sihle (pronounced “See-shlay”) was our skilled and experienced driver. He put us front and center with two young-adult male elephants, tussling like teenagers. Moments later, we came upon a small pride of lions, one male, three females. One of the gals curiously stalked us as we circled around them and parked behind some brush. The others laid there, bellies obviously full, alternating between flopping on their backs and staring at the sunset. We left the lions and found giraffes munching the tallest leaves, and then we settled on an open area for sundowner cocktails and snacks. The sunset was stunning. And with Sihle’s permission, it was nice to get out of the car for a moment, to touch the ground, and appreciate what we had just experienced in such a short amount of time. That earlier note about dressing warm was spot on. We layered all of our warmest clothes, and guess what, I STILL needed to borrow the fleece poncho and lap blanket Sihle offered!!

When we returned to the dining room, I was in a state of awe and wonder. I was rambling on and on to the employees about what we saw, as if I was the only person lucky enough to have had this experience, as if they had never heard similar stories from other guests nor experienced the magic themselves. We settled down with wine by the fireplace, then enjoyed an indulgent multi-course dinner.

I barely slept that first night. I was wound up with energy from the luxurious accommodations and the exhilaration of the night drive, full from meals and treats, and way too excited about what we might see the next day!

We were awake early with the sunrise and enjoyed a breakfast of porridge and yogurt, toast, fruit smoothies, and teas. Then we layered up for our second game drive and the treat of seeing a new part of the reserve – the vast canyons and hillsides of the Reserve span nearly 100,000 acres. We learned about animal tracking, migration habits, and territorial domination. Our first sighting of the day was a group (a dazzle!) of majestic zebras and their young. Honestly, to spot them in the wild feels like seeing a unicorn. We continued our off-road adventure to find an open field of rhinos and more giraffes. Then we saw red hartebeests, warthogs, and impalas, some grazing, others on the move, all equally incredible.

Friday, June 10

Back to the lodge, for a rest on the deck in the sun, a dip in the private COLD plunge pool, and to delight in the amazing views. Then we feasted on the six-dish tapas-style lunch – which included a DIY (do-it-yourself) salad, Thai-style mussels, duck breast wontons, bacon wrapped venison, crispy parmesan and truffle polenta chips, ice cream AND sorbets.

Before we knew it, it was time for our third game drive! This time, we spotted a migration of buffalo and (from a distance) a family of hippos. We spotted them as we crested a hillside, and as we approached, they cautiously moved into their watering hole, all the while watching us as we watched them. By the time we got close, their massive bodies were fully submerged under water, with only their eyes and snouts exposed. A darling hippo calf swam from adult to adult, perching on their backs, curious to see who they were facing off with.

When we returned to the lodge, another couple had checked in, so we enjoyed cocktails together in the lounge before splitting off for private dinners. Our appetites fueled by exploration, we savored every bite of the spicy sweetcorn soup, French onion tart, rack of lamb, madras chicken curry, basil panna cotta, and the deconstructed affogato.

Saturday, June 11

Awake early, one last time, we breakfasted on eggs, mushrooms, toast, tea, and fruit smoothies before heading out for our fourth and final game drive, with the company of the other guests.

We immediately found more “ele’s” (Sihle’s affectionate nickname for the elephants), and then… a fallen giraffe. We had spotted this giraffe carcass on a previous drive, but after two days, it showed signs of having been devoured. In cases of natural death, like this, the Reserve doesn’t interfere with matters of prey or predator. While we eyed the giraffe with a sense of biological curiosity, I glanced over my shoulder and realized we were precariously parked between the giraffe and the male lion. Upon closer inspection, we spotted the other three female lions strategically encircling the giraffe (err…their lunch).

We moved on and found another large herd of ele’s and their precious calves. The calves were learning how to eat, with mixed success, using their mouths and their trunks (they eventually learn to use both the right way). A couple curious juvenile ele’s approached the Land Cruiser, testing their comfort zones and ours. For a notable end to our trip, we walked past springbok (an antelope), munching grass around the dining room of the lodge restaurant, and we spotted four zebras across from our yurt. Sihle assured us it was a good luck send-off, and I believe it was.

I would be lying if I said I wasn’t nervous about being so close to uncaged apex animals while sitting in a doorless vehicle. But Sihle was a skilled and experienced guide, tracker, and driver. He had the knowledge of a wise old man and the joy of a much younger man, always getting us just close enough, but still a safe distance away. His knowledge of the plants, the animals, the land of this region, plus his ability to handle my endless questions, the anxt of the other guests, AND navigate a massive four-wheel drive vehicle on rocky terrain – priceless.

I would also be lying if I thought I would ever go on safari in South Africa. It seemed fanciful and surreal. It was truly an exceptional experience. If you find yourself headed to South Africa, I hope a safari is on your itinerary, and hopefully, you find your way to Sihle at Shamwari Private Game Reserve.