After 10 days spent exploring the Western coast and countryside of France, we were ready to see the city. These were our most memorable stops in Paris!

Day 1

  • We kicked off our visit with a leisurely walk, catching a glimpse of the Palais Garnier and the Arc de Triomphe, we eventually strolled down the touristy Avenue des Champs-Élysées until we found the more posh Avenue George V.
  • We enjoyed the sun, and a break in the rain, with a rest and a picnic in the park (and a salad, baguette, & a lemon crepe to-go), all set in the shade of the Eiffel Tower.
  • We sipped cocktails and settled in at Fluctuart, an urban art center, literally floating on the Seine. They put the pop in culture, with their spray-paint-can drink menus and skateboard deck food menus.
  • We indulged at L’Avant Comptoir de la Terre. A tapas bar with only a few seats, and a highly skilled bartender who is ALSO the chef/food-runner/host (don’t take it personally if he isn’t enthusiastic about your visit – he’s too busy for chit-chat and the indecisiveness of first-timers). The menu is made up of tiles hanging from the ceiling with photos of the dishes of the day. We enjoyed Deck & Donohue Trouble #6 French Ale, paired with fondue saucisse puree (cheese + sausage dip), croquettes de morue (smoked cod), and a cold salad of haricort verts (French green beans) with figs and almonds (confession, this is now one of my favorite dishes to prepare at home).

Day 2

  • We reveled in the architecture and the exhibit at the Musée National Picasso. It was a deep exploration of Picasso’s life and work, made even better by the setting.
  • We scored a coveted lunch table at Frenchie, YESSSSSS! On the prix fixe menu; smoky agnolotti, fois gras, guinea fowl & asparagus, cod and beans, a cheese course, AND an amazing dessert which we gobbled up so quickly that we didn’t actually catch its name (it was sort of a clafoutis + brulee affair – a crisp-edged, custard-y sweet and yummy treat).
  • We meandered around The Centre Pompidou. Turns out, modern art… it’s not my fave. BUT, the incredible sunset from the exhibit floor terrace seriously softened me up. In the maze of escalators and doorways, we never found our way to the current/pop art exhibit. But now we have a reason to go back, and I’ll take a renewed sense of curiosity & perspective next time.

Day 3

  • We took our time with the classic greats at the Musée d’Orsay – seeing the works of Serat, Monet, Manet, Degas, Renoir, all of it. Then we moved on to Musée de l’Orangerie, to get a little more intimate with Monet’s Water Lilies. After our days spent on the coast and in the countryside, it was easy to recognize the landscape that inspired so many French impressionists.
  • Lunch was a quick sidewalk snack at Boulangerie Eric Kayser – for vegetarian plat du jour (the special of the day) and a madeleine, of course!
  • Last but not least, we landed at the Louvre Museum. We saw classic works of art, sculptures, and artifacts from all around the world. All of it, LARGE, like massive. We eventually joined the queue for the one and only, petite and heavily guarded, Mona Lisa. While she was interesting, I was more consumed by the crazy lines and the throngs of people – and it wasn’t even tourist season.
  • We doubled back to the Arc de Triomphe, this time at night, and climbed to the top to enjoy the evening skyline with an unexpected treat, seeing the Eiffel Tower lit up in pink twinkling lights.
  • Dinner was at Los Gueros because we HAD to try French-Mexican food – chips, guacamole, beers, tacos, all of it.

Day 4

  • We started with a morning visit to Sainte-Chapelle. The chapels stunning stained glass windows radiated light & color, even with little sun, lots of grey-sky and hovering rain clouds.
  • The drizzling rain meant it was a perfect day for shopping! Clothes for me at Antoine et Lili, then a special Fleur de Sel (du Sud-Ouest) at Verre Vole, and of course, macarons and sweets to take home from Pierre Marcolini. I lingered (probably too long, considering I didn’t buy anything) at Puzzles Michèle Wilson, enjoying each hand-cut puzzle of famous French works of art.
  • We lunched at La Comptoir on an inspiring salad Niçoise. A classic French dish that’s made hearty and satisfying, typically with the addition of tuna, green beans, hard-boiled eggs, tomatoes, and potatoes. I loved it so much, it’s another dish that has now been added to the regular rotation at home. My main course was in-shell scallops with leeks, and for dessert, I savored my final, beloved French Café Noisette.
  • Final stop, quiche takeaway from Maison Landemaine Oberkampf, saved for a leisurely in-room breakfast the next day, before our departure.

About our accommodations – Hotel Les Deux Girafes was nice, brand new, with courteous & helpful staff. Our room, while spacious (comparatively), was an interior courtyard room on the sub-ground level. Meaning even with windows, it didn’t get a ton of natural light, especially on rainy days. And that meant we had even more reason to get going each morning! And because the room was contemporary, it took me a minute to figure out how to settle in – there wasn’t a closet, only hooks along the wall, and there wasn’t bathroom counter space for travel toiletries. But I was VERY grateful for the robe & slippers. And we loved the location in the 11th Arrondissement, where we found ample dining options, a nearby laundromat, and a Monoprix market for our noshing needs.

My final few takeaways and tips:

  • Splurge on the premium seats on your flight if your budget allows. Priority luggage check-in makes life easy, the lounge is comfortable, and the spacious reclining seats on the flight are fantastic.
  • Pick up the Paris Museum Pass when you land at the airport. It allowed us access to all of our top sights.
  • Wear comfy walking shoes*, your back & feet will thank you. As much as I love trains & public transit, I eventually grew tired of the cavernous underground in Paris, especially when the rail lines unexpectedly stopped. It happened to us at least twice, and both times, our only options were to walk. And I was happy to walk, even in the rain.
  • *About French fashion = anything goes. Truly. Single, monotone, vibrant-color suits on men. Sneakers with tights and dresses for women. All black. All color. Hair naturally messy, nails done. Stripes with polka dots and plaid. Every age. Every language, every religion. Worry less about how you look, and instead enjoy the variety of looks all around you.
  • We ate SO WELL. Every kind of food – Thai, Italian, Argentinan, Mexican, FRENCH. It was all delicious (except for hamburgers and steaks – so maybe skip the beef?). The point is, there are abundant alternatives – healthy ones too, I had ample veggie, salad, and grain options. And of course, bread, cheese, wine, and sweets. Try it all, especially the Café Noisette (pronounced [NWAA] + [ZET]).

If you’re not inspired to cook, paint, eat, walk and explore after a trip to France, then you may be doing something wrong. Honestly, to all the naysayers out there, if you hate France, then France might not have much affection for you either. From Paris – with Love. XO