There is an undeniable gravitational pull in and around New Zealand. The air is crisp and clean, blooming flowers are full and bright, and you can experience every season in a single day. Not bad for a vacation. But what made this trip even more special, was the people that we spent it with. Go if you can, with friends if possible, and at the very least, get out, explore, and turn over a new leaf.

Our dear friends make a semi-regular month-long pilgrimage to New Zealand to kick off the New Year and to celebrate, well, everything – from birthdays to friendship. They invited us along, to explore Raglan and to meet and visit Mr. & Mrs. Rogers – two hard-working expats who have made Raglan their home. During our visit they poured as much energy into us as they pour their hearts and souls into everything they touch. They have built businesses to serve locals and travelers, and they have created educational eco-tours around sustainability. They celebrate the best quality products from the region, and they share their wisdom and their table, selflessly. If it weren’t for our friends, or the Rogers, I may never have driven on the right side of a car & the left side of a road, nor fallen in love with the Waikato, kips, and butter chicken!

If you want an Endless Summer surf vacation, look no further than Raglan. And if you want to pull back the curtain and get to know the community even better, add these stops to your itinerary:

  • Mercer Cheese (Auckland) – we flew into Auckland and had a two-hour drive to Raglan. This was a perfect midway pit stop. We sampled pungent, deeply veined blue cheese, fresh and aged goat cheeses – some plain, others accented with cumin, nettle, or garlic & chives. Wrap some up for snacking later!
  • Eel Farm (Raglan) – the farm celebrates the miraculous journey the eels make from the sea to the inner waterways of the Northern island, then back again. The evolutionary journey and their preservation have become a passion for Mr. Rogers. Bonus, the farm boasts alpacas and sheep – which graciously share their wool with the likes of hats and scarves. And then there are the bees & their hives – which are critical to plant pollination, but more importantly they produce the iconic and valuable-as-gold Manuka honey infamous in this part of the world. We sampled the honey on the best scones ever, shadowing a group of international students that made the Eel Farm a stop on their tour. If you’re lucky, you may get a behind the scenes peek, along with the top-secret scone recipe!
  • Karioi Lodge (Raglan) – what started out as backpackers’ accommodations, has expanded with a community kitchen, a family house, campsites, and the Raglan Surfing School. Travelers that are willing to help, learn, and contribute, can find short-term work during their stay. And I’ve heard the lodge will try to help find beds elsewhere when they are at max capacity.*
  • Sunset Boat Charter (Raglan) – hop aboard the Wahine Moe and explore the pancake rocks of the Whaingaroa Harbour (the rocks are named as such, because they look like stacks of pancakes!). We tagged along with a National Geographic tour group and got a history lesson on the lovely “Sleeping Lady” (Mount Karioi) mountain range which is now an extinct volcano.
  • A concert at the Raglan Club, Inc. (Raglan) – Cornerstone Roots and Sons of Zion brought out the towering Maori youth who crush 40-oz beers as if they were mini-bottles of water. They indeed like to “bring it,” so we gave them plenty of space while carving out a little dance floor of our own.
  • Whale Bay (Raglan) – nothing, literally nothing, stops the locals from getting wet, not a super high tide nor super low tide, not even thunder storms or big, big, waves. Mr. Vacay said this was the longest left of his life, and I could see what he meant from my precarious slopping hillside perch. There wasn’t much of a beach where we were, but it looked like it had great tide-pooling potential. Be prepared to get sea-sprayed. Don’t like to get wet? Don’t go. Need a board? Seek out the Raglan Surfing School.
  • Bridal Veil Falls/Waireinga Scenic Reserve (Makomako) – an easy hike, even in flip-flops and a sundress. Keep your eyes open for the legendary silverback ferns. The top side (sun side) of the ferns are deep green, but the underside (root side) are bright silver. A little easier to find, the beautiful water fall and collection pools, you can’t miss them.
  • Polynesian Spa (Rotorua) – it is a little touristy, but worth it for an end of vacation soak in the fresh water hot springs of Lake Rotorua. I recommend going on a weekday, and opting for the Adult Pools (depending on your travel companions).
  • Government Garden and Kuirau Park (Rotorua) – walking among the steaming and bubbling geothermal hot springs early in the morning feels like stepping on to the theater set of a real-life fairytale.

Splendid Stays

  • Novotel Auckland Airport Hotel – we arrived in Auckland the night before our friends. The hotel is conveniently, and literally, outside the doors of the Auckland airport. It’s contemporary, clean, and comfortable for an overnight stay – especially if you have a late arrival or an early departure.
  • Dreamcatcher Lodge – a private studio vacation rental in Raglan, nestled among trees and only a 5-minute walk from the infamous Whale Bay (of The Endless Summer movie-fame).
  • Quest Rotorua Central – we made a side-trip to Rotorua to soak in the geo-thermal hot-springs. Bonus – the rooms have a kitchenette and a washer & dryer, perfect for travelers that need to do laundry!

Memorable Meals

  • Post Office Public House (Auckland) – a darling spot, off the beaten path. We dug into prosciutto-wrapped & herb-stuffed chicken served with couscous and vegetables, salmon salad and a side of smoky mashed potatoes, topped off with New Zealand’s own Landscape Pinot Noir.
  • Harbor View Hotel (Raglan) – with a street side patio in the center of town, you could spend the day watching people coming and going while noshing on pizza.
  • Rock-It Kitchen (Raglan) – they have an expansive grass yard, perfect for kids or spontaneous dance parties! We had a breakfast of avocado toast with smoked tomatoes, spinach, poached eggs, and coriander drizzle. Washed it all down with a caffeinated chai tea latte + a decaf espresso shot, and an ooey-gooey caramel chocolate brownie (yes, breakfast deserves dessert too). Then we went back again for the rockin’ NYE party, complete with house music and champagne!
  • The Shack (Raglan) – we had lunch with “the beer lady” (a friend made while traveling in Bali months earlier). I dug into the chickpea & corn fritters, and a peppermint, orange & rooibos iced tea.
  • Warf Restaurant (Raglan) – a farewell dinner shared with old & new friends – we indulged in Tohu Sauvignon Blanc, savory lamb, delicate mussels, and a side of greens.
  • Breakfast at Capers Epicurean (Rotorua) – we loaded up on French toast, nut & yogurt bowls, plus gastronomical gifts to take home – including chocolates and the indulgent ginger slice (which is my absolute favorite NZ treat!), as well as savory seasoning rubs from the main street farmers market.

I’ve traveled as a mere visitor to different places, and I’ve traveled as an invited guest to several more. There’s often a distinct difference between visiting a spot and actually getting acquainted with it. En route to New Zealand, we made a side-stop in Australia, and we were merely visitors passing through. So when we ultimately made it to New Zealand, we slowed down, we took our time, and thanks to gracious hosts, we got familiar with the beauty, the charm, and the land of the Kiwi’s.

*2022 update – the lodge was sold and is getting a new life, as a tech school!