“I LOOOOOVE Puerto Vallarta,” from the mouths of friends, to my ears, I’ve heard it time and time again. Whether it’s sweethearts smitten with the Zona Romantica, sun worshippers smitten with the beaches, or retirees smitten with the easy living, they all seemed to gush cultishly about the area. So, of course, I wanted to check it out! With open hearts and open minds, we packed our bags and headed South, to visit the sweet mom of a dear friend (aka “Jules”) and to see what we could find.

Turns out, this area is pretty cool indeed, and I can see why Jules has spent her winters here for nearly 40 years. The first part of our trip was spent in and around Puerto Vallarta and Marina Vallarta, in the state of Jalisco and on the border of Nayarit. The weather is dreamy November through April, with average daily temps in the 70’s. The city is well developed, easy-ish to navigate, and busy with traffic and people. Retirees, tourists, and locals all pack buses, coming and going from high rise condos, resorts, shops and restaurants. We joined the mix, balancing our days cruising around town with down time by the pool. And we burned through one entire evening playing an intense game of Domino’s – Mexican Train of course, with more than one accusation of rule-bending! If you are looking for a place to try to “get-away from it all,” Puerto Vallarta might not be the spot for you. But, if you are looking for a place to just “get-away,” and want most of the conveniences and comforts of home, then this might be your sweet spot.

The second part of our trip was spent North of Puerto Vallarta, in Punta Mita and Sayulita. Both communities are trying to find the right balance between laid-back beach vibe, and uber-popular destination. These are not easily reconciled identities, and few towns have managed to succeed at being both. Sayulita, while seemingly more populated than Punta Mita, lacks some of the fundamental infrastructure needed to sustain the steady stream of guests. Punta Mita, developed for tourists with an infusion of cash and investors, seems pretty comfortable with its hybrid identity – as an upscale, not-so-secret, relaxed beach community – known for high-end resorts (which we enjoyed with a dinner reservation) and beachfront condo rentals (which we scored at the last minute!).

These were the trip highlights:

  • In Old Vallarta (Zona Romantica), Mr. Vacay & Jules led us on an improvised walking and eating tour – which included the Plaza de Armas, the church of Our Lady of Guadalupe, a trust walk across two suspension bridges, the coast view from the Los Muertos Pier, and a stroll along the Malecón. We stopped for sugared pumpkin seeds at Dulces Tìpicos Mexicanos con Orgullo Azteca (loosely translated, that means DELICIOUS), then we snacked on ceviche at Mariscos El Güero & tacos at Taqueria El Cuñado, wrapping up with beers on the beach at Burros Bar.
  • Head Northwest of town, and you’ll find Marina Vallarta which hosts a Thursday night market that runs the full length of the Marina. There are stalls and vendors offering beautifully handcrafted goods and endless snack options (P.S. you need to get in line early for the fresh bagels – who knew?!). But the star attraction was the crocodile that nosed his way out of a storm drain and into the Marina well after sunset. It wasn’t until the next morning, with my leftover breakfast in a to-go baggie, that we noticed the warning signs, “Don’t feed the crocodiles.” Ah, so, no egg sandwich for the crocs then?
  • Along the Marina boardwalk, we also indulged at several of the restaurants. One favorite, the Beer Box, offers a casual setting with a focus on beer and mezcal, and a creative & complementary food menu. We shared fresh tuna tostadas, sliders, beef carpacio and popcorn salmon. The standout restaurant in this area though, was 8 Mariscos Tostadas, a big, clean, bright space, busy with locals (so you KNOW it’s good!). It’s a great family-friendly daytime pick. We shared the green ceviche, shrimp empanadas, agua del día, and the “to-die-for” Diego style sashimi tuna.
  • In Punta Mita, we enjoyed several candlelit  dinners, beachfront, with our toes in the sand. The Blue Shrimp earned top marks for food and flare – like the table-side margarita prep and the maple glazed pulpo. Spice Market (at the newly opened W Hotel) earned top marks for creative restaurant design, artistry, and cocktails – don’t miss the muddled ginger margarita! And Si Señor earned top marks for nostalgia – try the tamales, you will not be disappointed.
  • In Sayulita, the overnight rain and the subsequent runoff from town turned the ocean into tumbling shades of brown, so surfing for the fellas was OUT. But beachside lunch with a side of refreshments, and boutique shopping for the gals was very much IN. We spent our time at Revolucion del Sueño and Rosemary Collective Boutique, relishing the one-of-a-kind t-shirts, easy breezy cover-ups, kitschy Mexican market carry all bags, and cozy beach blankets.

In the end, situated somewhere between indulgence and simplicity, it was Punta Mita that managed to steal a piece of our hearts. As Revolucion del Sueño likes to say, “Mexico es amor.” Indeed.