Oaxaca is full of boutique charm. From the city to the pueblos, from the markets to the hotels, there is a casual and easy confidence among the people here. It is evident in the work that they do – and it seems that everyone is working, creating something of value, something special, something delightful.

Speaking of delightful, I was blown away by the abundance and usage of cacao and chocolate in this region. There is a major player, Chocolate Mayordomo, on nearly every corner in the city center of Oaxaca, and of course, we sampled at every stop. You can watch mix masters stir up fresh batches with the traditional combo of cacao beans, sugar, and cinnamon. The batches, soft when freshly mixed and then hardening as they dry, are traditionally used in hot chocolate, chocolate ice-shakes, and in the “seven mole sauces of Oaxaca.”

Chapulines (less delightful, grasshoppers) are also a surprising but common snack. They are dried, seasoned, and spiced, and sold in markets and by street-side vendors. They are also featured on menus and in dishes like empanadas and memelitas. Empanadas in Oaxaca more closely resemble a large quesadilla folded in half (versus small sealed pastries) and memelitas resemble a huarache or a sope – think corn cake – commonly filled with meat, beans, and cheese, mole, or chapulines! Alas, we ate more than just chocolate and grasshoppers during our stay. Here is a rundown of where we ate, where we stayed, and how we got around this region.

Memorable Meals – Oaxaca

  • Del Jardin Café Bar – on the perimeter of the Zocalo park, we enjoyed a lunch of Fideo soup and the first of many Oaxacan tlayudas (similar to a pizza but with a super thin tortilla crust).
  • Mercado 20 de Noviembre (AKA “Calle de Carne” meat market) – I was far outside of my comfort zone at this meat fest. But Mr. Vacay couldn’t have been happier in that smoke filled hallway. There are 10+ vendors/stalls to choose from. Pick one, pick your meat, pick your sides, and grab a seat. They grill the meat and serve it on butcher paper. Enjoy it with fresh tortillas, dressed with your favorite fixins, and wash it all down with a Mexican soda.
  • Alhóndiga Reforma – a gourmet Mexican food hall (I LOVE a food hall!). We sampled small plates from Cocina del Mundo, La Taqueria, and Garancha.
  • Los Pacos – they offer a mole sampler plate (the Mole Mixto), it is a GREAT way to try the different variations of this regional favorite. We also tried the sopa de guía – Oaxaqueño style squash vine soup.

Memorable Meals – Puerto Escondido

  • Finca Las Nieves – go for the fresh roasted coffee. We shared a chemex and a beautiful view of the beach. For true aficionados, they also offer visits to their single estate organic coffee farm!
  • Cafecita – a busy spot at breakfast, but they seat you quickly, and they have a ton of variety on the menu.
  • Playa Kabbalah – while the Mr. went for an early morning surf session, I enjoyed the ocean front loungers and pancakes (not exactly a traditional Mexican dish – but still delish!).
  • Palapita Bar – after a sunset beach walk, this was a first stop for a pre-dinner evening cocktail.
  • Restaurante Espadin – located at the Villas Carrizalillo Hotel, and with a view of my FAVORITE bay of the same name, this is a great place to splurge on a lovely sunset dinner. I started with a Mezcal-tini, then we dug into the pumpkin seed crusted fish as well as the Yucatecan style fish, and we wrapped up the meal with plátanos and dark chocolate ice cream.

Splendid Stays

Los Pilares Hotel, Oaxaca City – We arrived in Oaxaca city at 8 am. after a brutal red-eye flight. With an early arrival, we were grateful to have a full day to explore the city, but we were in desperate need of sleep. Fortunately, there was a clean room and a comfy bed ready and waiting for us. It is a comfortable and quaint hotel, just outside of the city center. In the evening, you can share mezcal and travel tales with other guests in the open air atrium. And in the morning you can start your day with pan dulce and hierba santa eggs in the rooftop restaurant. Ask for a “quiet” room when making your reservation.

Hotel Santa Fe, Puerto Escondido – Again, we arrived early in the morning, and once again, we were thrilled to find this charming hotel had a lovely room available for an early check in. The location can’t be beat, across from the beach, but a perfect distance from the busy center of town. They also have every indulgence readily available – generously sized rooms, reliable wi-fi, two pools (necessary for cooling off!), and poolside cocktail service (also necessary for cooling off!). Their restaurant overlooks the beach and has a diverse menu offering, I highly recommend the Huachinango Entero (whole roasted red snapper).

Navigation Notes

To get from Oaxaca city to Puerto Escondido, we caught an early morning, 30-minute ride on an 11 passenger prop plane. The only other option was a 12-hour winding drive on a bus. I had mixed feelings about the plane – it looked like it was designed for jumping out of (turns out that it was). But then I talked to people who had taken the bus. We chose wisely, the bus is a rough ride even for seasoned travelers who don’t get motion sickness, so the prop plane is definitely the way to go.

No matter how you get around, where you stay, or how adventurous your palate is, I hope you get to experience the charm and delight of this region!